
History
Tracing the ancient footsteps of Japan’s oldest road
Ellen Van Goethem
Ellen Van Goethem is a Professor of Japanese History and History of Ideas at Kyushu University. Her expertise lies in the archaeology and history of ancient Japan, with a particular focus on the Nara period. She has conducted extensive research on the Nara Yamanobe trail, exploring the connections between the trail, ancient capital layouts, and the reigns of early rulers. Her work sheds light on the cultural and spiritual significance of the Nara region’s historical sites, including Kofun-era burial mounds and Heian-era shrines.

A Timeless Journey -
The Story of
Nara Yamanobe
Stretching along the western foothills of the Yamato Plateau in Nara Prefecture, Yamanobe no Michi—literally “the road near the mountains”—is the oldest road recorded by name in Japan’s extant written sources. Mentioned in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan), both 8th-century court chronicles, this road was a significant and well-known landmark. It is noted as the location of the burial sites of two early rulers: Emperor Sujin (believed to have died in 33 BCE) and his grandson Emperor Keikō (said to have died in 130 CE).
The precise path and length of the original Yamanobe no Michi remain uncertain, but it is thought to have spanned between present-day Sakurai City and Nara City. Tenri in the north and Sakurai in the south. This route likely evolved from a natural north-south trail along the mountain range at the eastern edge of the fertile Nara Basin. Archaeological findings confirm that this area was inhabited as far back as prehistoric times and has been continuously occupied since. Consequently, the region is rich in historical sites.
One significant landmark along the route is Mt. Miwa, a triangular mountain at Yamanobe Road’s southern end. Archaeological and mythological evidence suggests that Mt. Miwa served as a ritual center as early as the late 3rd century. The mountain itself was—and continues to be—revered as a sacred object of worship, embodying a deity (kami). At the northern end lies another important ritual site, Isonokami Jingū, where a 4th-century, Korean-made, seven-branched sword is enshrined. These sites were central to the emerging political lineages of the Nara Basin, which would eventually culminate in the ancient Japanese state.
Starting in the mid-3rd century, regional elites began constructing large burial mounds known as kofun. These standardized mounds, accompanied by specific grave goods, rapidly spread across Japan’s main islands. Unsurprisingly, numerous kofun are found along Yamanobe Road, including the Hashihaka burial mound, which some scholars speculate may be the tomb of Queen Himiko—a 3rd-century ruler mentioned in Chinese chronicles, though the location of her kingdom, Yamatai, remains uncertain.
In subsequent centuries, an alliance of powerful local families known as the Yamato polity rose to prominence, expanding their influence throughout Japan. During this period, contact with China and the Korean Peninsula introduced significant cultural, religious, and political changes to the region. The official introduction of Buddhism in the mid-6th century brought new religious practices, including the construction of Buddhist temples alongside traditional worship sites like Mt. Miwa. Burial customs also began to shift, with some elites opting for cremation in the Buddhist tradition and adopting continental-inspired decorations in burial chambers.
By the late 6th century, Empress Suiko established her palace in the Asuka Valley, south of Yamanobe Road. Half a century later, Chinese principles of government and urban planning were introduced via Korean intermediaries. These innovations accelerated the state formation process, leading to the establishment of Japan’s first capital cities and a centralized bureaucracy.
History of Nara Yamanobe
While known as the oldest road, the region also has a deep historical significance. Learn more in-depth about the history of Nara Yamanobe with Professor Timon Screech and Ellen Van Goethem.